As it turns out, the beauty of El Yunque is not the only thing that is indescribable. Another part of our two weeks that took my breath away was the STANK of our rental car. We had it for less than 24 hours and I’m pretty sure they had to total that car.
But Enterprise exacted its revenge. It took over an hour to return the car; we were afraid we would miss our ferry to Culebra Island so we enacted the “we pick you up” service of Enterprise and had them drop us off. So, while we did circumnavigate the island, we actually rode in a car for seven miles from Luquillo to Fajardo. (Don’t tell GVP I told you.)
Despite all the online ruckus, it was surprisingly easy to take our bikes on the passenger ferry from Fajardo to Culebra. We had to pay a little extra but it was literally no problem. Another reason I’m grateful we went on the off season (also because it is slightly cooler in the off season bringing the average temp down from 85/90 to 77/82).
That first night we grabbed dinner at a kiosko for a whopping $37 (note to self: ask how much before ordering), laid out our tarp on the beach, and saw more stars than I’ve ever seen at once. In one direction the sky was endless. In the other direction was Flamenco Beach, which Discovery Channel voted the second most beautiful beach in the world. Not too shabby. Not too shabby at all.
We stayed for two nights which was pretty perfect. You might be doing some (very simple) math in your head and realizing that so far we have only biked 28.5 miles (and six from the ferry to the beach and back, so THERE) but don’t judge. There are another 308.5 to come (343 total…yes that 7 mile car ride kept us from 350).
Culebra was a definite highlight. We had pizza and rum. I reluctantly ate shark for the first time; I’m a
vegetarian but was eating all seafood on the trip. Unfortunately that night no one had anything but shark or chicken (GVP got the chicken and when he couldn’t finish it he threw the extra to some chickens and we saw CHICKENS EATING CHICKEN). On a romantic sunset walk on the beach we saw a guy owning these HUGE waves with just a noodle floatie for assistance. Legit the waves were so gigantic we didn’t get in past our waists. We also saw a couple of the tanks the US Navy abandoned on the beach when it was a training base before WWII; while the natural beauty was better, I like a good juxtaposition as much as the next person.
I also learned a lot about my likes and dislikes while on the tiny island. Likes: Dr. Bronner’s peppermint soap (because I don’t feel bad when it runs off like with soap that’s full of chemicals), cortisone cream, doing laundry in an abandoned camp chair, this one perfect spot on the beach under the shade of some trees. Dislikes: mosquitoes, a big family coming up and blasting their music right next to the perfect spot, the tide coming in a soaking us in maybe our not so perfect spot.
Also a big like is that guy I call GVP is my boyfriend now.
Because even a bike vacation isn’t all about biking, that’s why I love riding my bike.